PATTI CADBY BIRCH

(1923 – 2007)

When describing jewelry connoisseur and collector Patti Cadby Birch the term world traveler scarcely does her justice. For Birch did not just travel the world, she immersed herself in it.

Patti was born in 1923 to an American father and Russian mother living in New York. During her youth Patti traveled the world and spent her formative years of study mainly in Paris. After completion of her schooling abroad, she returned to the U.S. and briefly enrolled in the University of Virginia. Her love of art soon lured her to the Philadelphia Museum of Art where she worked under the guidance of David Rosen. This meaningful employment was to become the entrance into a world that became her life’s journey.

In 1952, she met and married Everett B. Birch. Her love of art and travel flourished. The couple became avid collectors and in the early 1950s Patti, opened Cadby Birch Gallery to further enrich her interest in fine art. Shows included works by Zoa Wou-Ki, Vuillard, Severini… her collection of contemporary art flourished.

Patti also had a great interest in the ancient and exotic, this took the Birches to Persia and Morocco where they purchased a home in Marrakech. There are currently two rooms at the Metropolitan Museum dedicated to her love of the culture and the memory of Patti.

Birch eventually made her home on the U.S. Virgin Island of St. Thomas where she opened Circe Gallery in 1969. Here she became not only known worldwide for her impressive collection of ancient Persian, African, and Pre-Colombian relics, but also the fine collection of jewelry that was now her passion. Historical Persian jewels delighted her and she made multiple trips to Iran and surrounding areas to acquire ancient beads and jewelry that could either be worn “as is”, or fashioned into wearable artifacts.



Detail of a Gold and Garnet Bead Necklace, Northern Persia



When speaking of these jewels, Patti said they “hold one of the keys to understanding by-gone civilizations.” During this time she also designed an affordable line of jewelry, mainly in silver, under the Circe label that echoed the handiwork of the ancient pieces.

Silver Gilt Arrowhead, Copied After a Luristan Bronze Arrowhead

Birch’s collection of ancient Persian jewelry has been featured in some of the world’s most prominent museums, including “Jewelry from Persia” at Germany’s renowned Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim and “Ornaments of the East” at The Hermitage Museum in Saint Petersburg, Russia.



Detail of Ancient Beads

Patti Cadby Birch remained devoted to the art world throughout her life. She served on both the Board of the Museum of Modern Art as well as that of the Metropolitan Museum. She helped organize numerous exhibitions, gave artists their first shows and brought to life ancient worlds. 

Kimberly Klosterman Jewelry is very excited to share several Patti Cadby Birch pieces in our collection.

Gold and Garnet Bead Necklace Northern Persia

11 - 12th Century Islamic Earrings Northern Persia

Luristan Bronze Bracelets with Modern Gold Finials

Modern Ring in the Ancient Persian Style





Persian Necklace and Pendants

1st Century BC - 1st Century AD Necklace
Northern Persia



6 - 7th Century AD Sasanian Pendant with Modern
Garnet Additions and Early Crystal Beads

BARBARA ANTON

(1926 – 2007)

Pearl Necklace

While looking into the great jewelry designers of the 1960s and 1970s, it’s interesting to note that so many of them were accomplished artists in several disciplines other than jewelry design. Henry Alvin (H. Alvin) Sharpe was a print-maker and silversmith and Andrew Grima’s work as an engineer influenced the technical aspect of his jewelry. 

Another such jewelry designer who was a "Jacqueline" of all trades was Barbara Anton. The Pennsylvania-born artist began her career in the arts after studying acting and painting at Columbia University. She worked for a time as an actress and soon began writing plays to great critical acclaim. At the time of her death she had written 33 plays and published several books: Egrets to the Flames (2008), Demi Verse (2008), Terse Verse (2005), and My Guardian Angel is Exhausted, just to name a few.

Egrets to the Flames by Barbara Anton

But Anton was not satisfied with just being a writer, an actress, an engineer, and a painter. Her continued education included study at The Museum of Modern Art and The Gemological Institute of America. Here her love of jewelry led to a new path and she began creating jeweled works unique in design, leading to the distinction of receiving more than 20 international awards for Excellence in Jewelry Design. Such awards included highest honors from The Cultured Pearl Associations of America and Japan and the Diamonds International Award.

Orchid Bracelet

When examining her work in detail, the main tenet of her one-of-a-kind creations is the artistic execution of her design. With her workshop and store in Englewood, New Jersey, Anton produced numerous exclusive jewels. Often using high caliber colored gemstones and juxtaposing them in ways never before seen.

Kimberly Klosterman Jewelry is pleased to include several of Anton’s creations in its collection.

Cufflinks
Available at kklostermanjewelry.com

Kunzite Diamond Platinum Ring

Pearl Necklace

With her seemingly spontaneous placement of stones and textural gold-work, Barbara Anton’s pieces express a distinctive painterly quality.

Pearl Necklace Closeup Detail

Amethyst Cocktail Ring C 1960
Available at kklostermanjewelry.com

Gold Ring C 1970
Available at kklostermanjewelry.com

Citrine Bracelet

Moss Agate Ring

Known to scholars and collectors, as a "best kept secret", Anton's jewels have appeared in the Boston Museum of Fine Art as well as numerous arts institutions throughout Europe. She also held the distinction of fashion and design editor for National Jeweler Magazine.

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Currently on 1stdibs: Barbara Anton An Amethyst Cocktail Ring C 1960 | Barbara Anton Gold Ring C 1970 | Barbara Anton Gold Heart Ring circa 1970

HENRY ALVIN (H. ALVIN) SHARPE

(1910 – 1982) 

Every year millions of people descend upon the city of New Orleans in February to celebrate Mardi Gras. Among the many staples of this decadent Fat Tuesday celebration is the doubloon, an aluminum coin thrown from the parade floats to the audience below.

Originally the brainchild of Kentucky-born artist Henry Alvin (H. Alvin) Sharpe, most people don’t know the real story behind this iconic piece of Mardi Gras history. In 1960, the Rex Organization’s then-captain Darwin Fenner wanted to create a new giveaway for Mardi Gras. So New Orleans artist Sharpe took on the challenge of crafting an aluminum coin for him, using his skills in intaglio or inscribing metal.

Sterling Pendant Inspired by Doubloon

The legend goes that Fenner was concerned because he thought the aluminum would be too heavy to throw into the throngs of people and thus wasn’t initially on board with Sharpe’s design. To prove his point, Sharpe marched into Fenner’s office and threw a handful of aluminum coins at his head. The stunt worked like a charm and the doubloon (named after the Spanish doblón) was introduced to the celebration that year.

Sketches and Prototypes of Highly Collectible Doubloon

Although certainly his best-known work, creating the Mardi Gras doubloon was not the only artistic work of Henry Alvin (H. Alvin) Sharpe. He worked in several artistic disciplines, including painting, etching, silver-smithery, and jewelry design. Interestingly, like jeweler Andrew Grima whom we wrote about previously, Sharpe was also a self-taught artisan.

Smith's Silver Work

Gold and Ruby Pendant

Poor Working Girl Sterling and Enamel Pendant

Silver Gilt Ring in the Shape of a Pecan

Sterling, Ruby, and 22K Gold Ring

High Carat Gold and Ruby Ring

Currently available on 1st dibs, this 24K gold ring features a uniquely shaped ruby and a large width band full of Sharpe’s signature etchings, including the unmistakable Tear of David.

Henry Alvin (H. Alvin) Sharpe’s work is intriguing on many levels. As with most artist-jewelers, the common thread of multidiscipline runs through his work.

Accomplished, interesting, and loved, Sharpe’s personality remains alive in his relics and his one-of-a-kind jeweled works don’t just exhibit the craft, they exhibit the soul of the man.

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Currently on 1stdibs: Henry Sharpe High Carat Gold and Ruby Ring

ANDREW GRIMA

(1921 – 2007)

The artist himself, Andrew Grima.

Bold. Radical. Flamboyant. These are just a few of the adjectives used to describe jewelry designer ANDREW GRIMA and his famed creations of the 1960s and 1970s. Born in Rome to a Maltese father and Italian mother, Grima became a jeweler almost by chance after persuading his father-in-law to purchase a cargo of Brazilian semi-precious stones from two well-known dealers, a clear departure for the small jewelry shop.

18k gold and Diamond Brooch

18k Gold, Diamond and Tourmaline 1980 Ring

18k Gold and Diamond 1971 Bracelet

18k Carved Emerald and Sapphire 1967 Brooch

18k White Gold, Blue Agate and Diamond 1973 Necklace

18k White Gold, Diamond, Rhodium and Abalone Pearl 1975 Necklace

18k Gold and Diamond 1965 Necklace

18k Gold 1970 Watch

Not classically trained as a jeweler, instead using his background as an engineer, GRIMA soon shocked the traditional jewelry scene of the time with pieces that celebrated his materials natural form. He let the stones stay as they were, large and unpolished, and kept them in abstract forms with native textures. GRIMA himself had a dislike of mediocrity and this was clearly demonstrated in his pieces.   Always staying true to the natural shape of the materials he showcased, semi-precious stones became a particular love, GRIMA infused a raw quality into the presentation of his pieces as well. GRIMA’s Jermyn Street boutique in London was designed by his two architect brothers with special attention given to setting his creations among into walls of steel and slate. The store had an industrial feeling, with a bit of Bond mixed in. “Like a lair for a villain in an early Bond movie.” – The Guardian As the tastemakers of the time took notice of his designs, so did the British Royal Family with GRIMA pieces being worn by Queen Elizabeth, Princess Margaret, and Princess Anne with the Queen’s royal warrant. Funnily enough, ANDREW initially became acquainted with the Royal Family through Lord Snowdon, Princess Margaret’s husband, who he met with after the Lord publically proclaimed there was nothing interesting happening in jewelry. Clearly Lord Snowdon had not heard of ANDREW GRIMA designs and we imagine he was just as shocked as the rest of the world to see them first-hand. Currently on 1stdibs: Andrew Grima Tourmaline Diamond Gold Ring | Andrew Grima For Omega Yellow Gold Pendant Watch Circa 1970  To learn more about ANDREW GRIMA and how the brand lives on, visit www.grimajewellery.com.

Arthur King

(1921-1986)

Metal and Gemstone Cuff

A tall, gregarious, and casually stylish New Yorker, King charmed collectors on both sides of the pond. Wounded in a Navy accident during WWII, he taught himself the art of lost wax casting while recovering. First working in white scrap metal and later silver, he caged roughcut stones or strategically placed misshaped holes to add texture and intrigue to bracelets and rings. 

His interest in jewelery continued and upon his return from duty he opened for business with his hand-crafted silver jewelry on 4th street in Greenwich village. He soon expanded both reach and materials. His fine gold work was showcased in as many as 18 locations including flagship stores on Lincoln Road in South Beach, Miami, Cuba, Paris, and Fortnum and Mason in London. His earthy wooden and cork interiored shop at 611 Madison Avenue opened in 1962.  

King's freeform style became almost iconic of the age.  His jewelry, always unique, railed against the cookie-cutter design of the large jewelery houses. They became works of art as individual as his patrons. His clientele included Vidal Sassoon and Lena Horne, the latter of whom helped him finance his midtown store at 59th street.  

Gold, Coral & Pearl Choker

18k Gold, Baroque Pearl & Colored Diamond Pendant

As his career progressed he refined his sensibilities and combined his love of exotic travel and  baroque pearls and unusual stones to produce organic jewels of high quality mounted in gold or platinum whiplashed-style settings. It is interesting to think of Arthur Kings jewelery as a reflection of the man himself.  His beautiful jewelery matched his own bold stature and personality. Pieces were often very large and impressive in scale and always a conversation piece.  

18k Gold & Malachite Ring

His recognition includes: 

• The Museum of Contemporary Crafts in New York 
• The Cultured Pearl Association of Japan
• Victoria and Albert Museum and the Goldsmith's Hall International Jewelry Exhibition in London
• Stockholm Museum of Modern Art

18k Gold and Ivory Bangle Bracelet