Wednesday, January 19, 2011

Aldo Cipullo


(1936-1984)

“All design is linked together.”

These are the words of renowned jewelry designer Aldo Cipullo. He began his apprenticeship in Italy, his home country, before moving to the States where he worked for David Webb and Tiffany. He even did time with Trifari designing costume jewelry. In the late sixties, a time of the flower child, he continued his career with Cartier, refining and simplifying his design sensibilities.

In 1969, he created what seemed like a fairly simple gold bracelet. Inspired by the chastity belt, he called his design the love bracelet and suggested that couples buy two, which they would exchange, like rings. They would each close the other’s circle with the screwdriver and never take off their bracelets. Cartier initially offered the bracelet exclusively to famous couples such as Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton, Nancy and Frank Sinatra. The love bracelet became so popular it is still a best seller at Cartier.

The nail bracelet, another iconic piece.


Detail of diamond and gold dollar sign bracelet, c.1970.

Ear pendants, 1972

This iconic piece underscored Cipullo’s more modernist eye and marked his trend to use the ordinary as inspiration for extraordinary pieces. The playful side of Cipullo led him to use everyday objects like nails, knots, dollar sign, and even games as the themes for his designs. For Cipullo, “to repeat the past is an easy way to get out of thinking, it’s an escape. The important thing is to reflect the present,” he says.

Little known Cipullo career move...jewelry designer on the 1973 movie “The Exorcist”. In this photo, actress Ellen Burstyn wears a Cipullo Hamsa necklace similar to the one pictured below.



Cipullo designs always turn heads...

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

History Lessons...

It was over 15 years ago that I bought my first piece of jewelry from the 1960's. This purchase developed a feverish passion for late mid-century fine jewelry. I wanted to show the world that modern design did not just come in silver. Gold Jewelry, so prevalent during both the 1960's and 70's, was big, bold and sculptural. It was a departure from the staid, mass produced pieces of earlier times. It reflected a new world, wild and individual. Major Jewelry houses employed designers to make one of a kind pieces to follow the success of Artist-Jewelers like Andrew Grima and Arthur King (whose shops incidentally, were as fantastic as their jewelry). The Beatles, Jimmy Hendrix, Vidal Sassoon, Mary Quant, Halston, Ed Sullivan, Flower Power, the Vietnam War - just a few components that influenced this wild 20 year span from 1960-1980. But is only in the past few years that this style has come back around. Forgotten names, at one time household with those in the know, have prompted me to share the information I have been gathering these last 15 years. I want to bring you more than just the wonderful collection of these artists on my website. I want to bring you a clearer sense of the pieces that were being made, the motivation behind the people making them, and of the time period in which they were produced.
In the future, I plan to look deeper into these artists:






Also:
Chaumet, John Donald, Mario Masenza, Asprey and Company, Buccellati, Toni Cavelti, Gubelin, Kutchinsky, Pierre Sterle, H. Stern, and more.

Get ready to have fun!